The Hangi? The Hongi? or
Both?
Friday,
the conference came to an end and it was time to begin our
cultural experience. Our first stop was a Maori Hangi
(feast) at the Tamaki Village near Rotorua. The trip began
with a busride to the Village and on the way I sort of
volunteered to represent our bus as "Chief." I had to
practice the Hongi (greeting--touching of noses to share the
breath of life). Our bus driver was my teacher. The tribe we
were visiting performed the Hongi by clasping right hands,
placing left hands on right shoulders, and touching noses
lightly two times. Some tribes only touch noses once. When
we arrived in the village, there was the matter of the
challenge.
A
warrior from the tribe confronted us in the marae or plaza
and did his best to intimidate the various Chiefs.
Eventually he chose one of us to be the "Chief Chief." I was
not chosen for this honor, but we all had to be dead
serious. A smile would have been a sign of mockery towards
the traditions of the Maori people.
After
being invited to enter the village, we watched Maori men and
women practice ancient arts of tattooing,
singing,
flute playing,
stick chanting, etc.
After a short tour of the village, it was time to go into the wharenui or meeting house for the formal welcoming ceremony, or hongi. We were called into the house by one of the Maori women, who sang the call to the ceremony.
We entered the meeting house, and were welcomed by one of the men who told us his history and that of the tribe in his native tongue. Followed by a number of other songs and dances leading up to the formal Hongi.
The chiefs all went forward and performed the Hongi with the men on the stage. According to tradition, only men could be chiefs--they were to always sit at the front to protect the women and children of their tribe. You can recognize me by the light reflecting off the bald spot on the back of my head.
After the Hongi, there were more songs and dances including the traditional Haka or war chant.
The
tongues were out, and the posturing was fascinating. After
the program, we moved to the wharekai or dining room, where
we were treated to the Hangi--pork, mutton, and beef cooked
in a pit with potatoes and other traditional Maori foods.
Then there was time to do some shopping in the village
before we boarded the bus for the return trip to
Rotorua.
On
the way home, the bus driver invited me to lead the group in
a few songs. I think I got carried away. We sang, "The
Wheels on the Bus," and "Old McDonald had a Farm," among
others. Finally, the bus driver took the microphone away so
he could lead us in "She'll Be Coming Round the Mountain" as
we circled round and round a traffic
roundabout.
We went back to the village the next day to get a daylight
picture of the village entrance and the Tiki that stood
guard on the right side of the gate.