Aaron Schwartz

History 2700

November 29^th, 2001

Rediscovering Cove Fort

In order to really know something, people often claim that they must experience it for themselves. With history, this is often difficult, because it has already taken place in past. If we want to experience history, then it becomes necessary to do research and become immersed in the ideas it contains. The search of truth is essential to the experience of history, and current living. With this in mind, it is no wonder why I have always been fascinated by historical sites. It never seemed an inconvenience to me to take time and learn what historical sites had to offer. I simply wanted to know the events that transpired and were worth preserving. It is amazing to know the reasons behind the way things are, in comparison to how they stand today. When I visit a historical site, I catch a glimpse of what it would have been like to live in a different time, place and condition. This glimpse, however, is never complete.

History is often taken for granted when we race through the society of today. By ignoring the contributions of those who have gone before us, we neglect the part of our being that allows us to see how progress is made. Many people will never know how butter and soap were originally produced, because everything today is made for our convenience. They will never know the difficulties of establishing a new settlement. They will never realize how livestock determined life or death. These and many other details from history have contributed to our immediate living conditions. I believe that the ability to recognize past generations and their achievements within society will allow anyone the ability to improve the society they themselves live in. To this effect, I have selected Cove Fort as a site to do research and some investigation work into. I hope to promote a public desire to visit and experience this and other sites within the southern Utah region, and to catch a better glimpse of the past.

There is a phrase: knowledge is power. Being somewhat simplistic in its’ meaning, this phrase does not mention anything about how knowledge should be used to create power. Knowledge used wisely is true power. Otherwise, it is of very little worth if any at all. One of the concerns historians face is the tendency of people to overlook details that seem trivial at first glance, but later prove to be of vital importance. For instance, there is a well-traveled story about a Scottish farmer. This story is still being verified, but has not yet ben disproved. The Scottish farmer is the one who heard a cry one day, from a boy who was trapped waist deep in mud, and then risked his own life to free the boy. The boy’s father was wealthy, and in compensation for saving his boy’s life, he payed for the farmer’s boy’s education. The farmer’s son was Alexander Fleming, the discoverer of penicillin. The boy saved was Sir Winston Churchill who later became the Prime Minister of Great Britain (author unknown). Though we honor each of these men for their contributions, it was one act of kindness that brought saving medication and leadership to the world.

Another concern of historians is how were details preserved over time. Paleontologists study the life from past geologic periods. To do so, they often excavate items from the Earth that have not been disturbed. This leaves the question of quantity verses quality. Other researcher must rely upon the traditions of various cultures to determine how things existed in the past. The concern shown here is: are these traditions accurate in their details?

These two concerns impede the ability to accurately "read into history." Living in southern Utah has many benefits in overcoming these problems. This region is covered by historical events, and sites. The details found in this region are still relatively undisturbed, and the major events that took place did so within the past 150 years (a short time period in history). Many people have access to facts about what things transpired within this vicinity. Cove Fort is one such site that contains a rich history and plenty of accurate information. It is unique and important in determining what conditions were like for the southern Utah region, because many travelers passed through its’ doors, several of whom provided their own contributions for history.

I have approached Cove Fort with the desire to know more than just basic facts about it, though they are important too. Books offer a wealth of knowledge, but not power. The desire to know Cove Fort beyond its’ dimensions was vital in catching an accurate glimpse into the history of southern Utah. After learning basic facts concerning Cove Fort, I reflected on my knowledge, then looked for extra details by visiting the site.

Cove Fort was built between April and November of 1867. Its’ construction was the result of many different needs. The first obvious need for Cove Fort to be built, came as a result of the Walker War (1853-1854) and Black Hawk War (1865-1868). President Brigham Young of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints authorized the construction of Cove Fort to remove "temptation" from the path of the Indians. He said:

Another reason for the establishment of Cove Fort, was the need for a mid-point between Fillmore (35 miles north) and Beaver (25 miles south). Cove Fort had the necessary water supply for travelers, but not for another community. For many years, this mid-point was an effective relief for weary travelers.

Construction was supervised by Ira Hinkley. Under his direction, there were many who were employed as quarrymen, and other laborers. Ira used black volcanic rock, and dark limestone to make Cove Fort’s 100 foot long walls, 18 feet high (four feet thick at the base, and two feet at the top). Twelve rooms were then added, six on the north, and the others on the south (Hafen p.262). These rooms had doors connecting them to each other for added convenience and protection. Ira and his family were also asked to live in and maintain the needs of Cove Fort. Cove Fort served more than just a means for rest and protection, it also served as a relay station for the telegraph, a U.S. Mail station, and means of passing on information about the region to others.

The Hinkley family were strong members of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, and shared their beliefs with anyone who desired to know more. It is reported that when President Brigham Young sent correspondence to Ira requesting his service in constructing the fort, Ira without hesitation said "Say to the President I will be there on the appointed day with conveyance prepared to go (Porter p.39)." Prior to receiving this messenger, the Hinkleys had a comfortable living in Coalville, and plans for a permanent residence there. To them, going to an inhospitable location and erecting and maintaining a fort was a test of their faith. Apparently, when Ira prayed for something, he immediately afterwards went to work for that which he prayed for (Cove Fort video).

Many hospitalities were given freely to those passing through the doors of Cove Fort. The fort was not limited to members of the Latter-day Saints. Emigrants, soldiers, scientists, legislators, surveyors, miners, lawyers, cattlemen, educators, artists, writers, and businessmen payed visits to this location (Porter p.71). Twenty-five cents was a standard price for a day’s worth of meals, and lodging at the fort, but the Hinkleys rarely, if ever, turned anyone away (Nielson). Often Entertainers would perform and traders would exchange, just for the privilege of staying. If a person was in need, then they could stay at the fort, regardless of any compensation for accommodations.

This information about Cove Fort’s construction and the Hinkleys was learned from books, and a thesis composed by Larry C. Porter in 1966. It is interesting information, but does not reach the nitty-gritty of living in southern Utah’s past. Before visiting the fort, I had several preconceptions. First, I imagined a fort with plenty of supplies. I thought the fort would be able to provide for a much larger number of individuals. Second, I thought the fort would be have a rougher standard of living. The fort’s distance from Fillmore and Beaver seemed like that would make the environment there a touch harsher. Third, I expected Cove Fort to have seen at least one battle or siege. Cove Fort never saw either. A final conception I held, was that the fort was intended to be self-sufficient.

My visit to Cove Fort provided a wealth of extra details that helped to clear up many distortions I held. Upon arriving at the fort, I was warmly greeted. The reputation of Cove Fort’s hospitality continues today. The man that greeted me was a volunteer worker for the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. He is an Elder in his church, and preferred to be called by this title and his last name Nielson.

Elder Nielson also gave me a guided tour of the fort. Our tour began in the telegraph office. At this point, I realized that I would begin to understand better the way things truly were in southern Utah history. The telegraph office rang with a number of obnoxious clicking sounds in the fashion of receiving a message. The quarters were designed so that the person in charge of the telegraph would be able to live in the same room. There was a couch there that could be extended to form a bed. There was a thick buffalo skin to cover the ropes making this conversion possible. The telegraph office also had two thick copper wires strung in their original fashion. These wires were able to carry a charge from some crude batteries that were made from glass jars containing acid. I was amazed to learn and realize that these single cell batteries were able to carry a charge of approximately thirty miles.

Leaving the telegraph office, Elder Nielson informed me that the window panes were manufactured after the same process of the original panes, though Germany was where they had to be ordered from. The type of window panes used are called Flod panes. We ventured next door to room that looked similar in construction to that of the telegraph office. This room was the Post Office. It is now being used as a video room, where a brief informational video is shared. The video further illustrated the construction and significance of Cove Fort. The room contained an old desk, and an original safebox for post. From the video, I learned that twice daily the stage coach passed through the fort. That was a far greater number of travelers than I expected.

We were shown the kitchen facilities next. I must admit that I was very impressed with the restoration of this area. The room was twice the size as the other two, and contained an excellent replica of the stove/oven that once was use there. The stove was a double cooker, and it allowed for many meals to be cooked at the same time. The hospitality of the Hinkley often revolved around sharing a good home cooked meal, and the stove helped me to visualize the potential they had to help many travelers. The kitchen contained a variety of other tools used at the time of its’ construction. There were butter churns, jars, pots and pans, brooms made of straw, butter molds, dinnerware, and other items. Seeing these things in the proximity displayed, gave the feeling of being part of the past.

Next to the kitchen, were entered a room where sewing seemed the theme. Decorated with a couple baskets of wool, a spinning weasel (device for measuring the length of the wool), several irons (one for ruffles too), and a sewing kit, gave the room a feeling of homeliness. Two old blocks of soap also were featured in this room.

Elder Nielson mentioned here that the Hinkleys (and other pioneers) were very resourceful. In order to make soap, a few ingredients were needed. First, animal lard had to be collected and stored over time. Second lye was the chemical agent for soap. Third, potash was needed. This could be collected from burnt timber, or other items such as cloth. Many pieces of cloth served as bedding, potash, clothing, rugs, and wicks for candles, before their value was gone.

Our tour took us next to the first of the Hinkley private rooms. This room was in the southwest corner of the fort, and was used by the Hinkley’s two boys. The room had a fireplace, and a trapdoor in the floor. This was used as a storage cellar for vegetables and fruits. There was a bed with a straw mattress in the room. The mattress was folded upwards to show how the bed was strung up. The headboard had a detachable rolling pin to flatten out the straw before sleeping in the bed. Off to the side of the bed, lay a tool, made of wood, that was used to tighten the ropes which held the mattress up. It was from this pin, and tool, that the phrase "sleep tight, don’t let the bedbugs bite," came from.

All of the details I noticed to this point have been observed or pointed out to me, as my guided tour continued, so also did the understanding I gained about history in southern Utah. I was shown the first guestroom at this point. With this room, I noticed and questioned certain pots that had been placed on cabinets and floors each room. These constituted a means of waterless plumbing. The pots on the cabinets were for washing hands, and the ones on the floor were for human waste. Fortunately the pots on the floor each had tight covering lids.

The second guest room was often used by Brigham Young. In this room, the wooden items were dyed using different techniques, some by berry stains, others by egg yoke stains. This was done, to give the appearance of woods other than the pinewood that was used (it added to the warm pleasing atmosphere of Cove Fort). Brigham Young enjoyed wearing top hats, and in order to keep them clean while traveling around, he used a designer leather case to protect his hats. Elder Nielson pointed out a leather traveling case in the room. He mentioned that Brigham preferred them for their curved top, because nothing could be stacked on top of them. This made his luggage the last to get loaded, and first to get unloaded. After a long day of traveling, it is not hard to imagine his desire to simply get things and go to bed.

One more room for guests was shown next. This room, our guide referred to as the four lights room. Light came from the windows, lamps, fireplace, and, as Elder Nielson pointed out, the scriptures. He used this room to emphasize that Cove Fort not only had an abundance of social activities, but also a wealth of spiritual activities. The Hinkleys read much from the Bible, and the Book of Mormon. Twice a day they gathered together to pray and read. When things were busy, Ira Hinkley used a key phrase to let his family know it was time for these activities. The key phrase was simply "let’s step aside and talk." It worked, and the family remained strong in their beliefs.

The next room was for the seven daughters of the Hinkleys. There were two beds, and one couch. Three daughters per bed, and the oldest got the couch. On top of the mantle, a hair box sat. This was where after enough length and quantity grown, the daughters could use it and give it to give dolls they would make. One such doll lay in a toy crib.

The last room was for Ira and his wife Adell. This room contained a combination of many other items found elsewhere at the fort. There was a table, bed, "plumbing pots," clothes articles, dyed cabinets, and pictures of Latter-day Saint temples. There was a hair picture too. I personally found this disgusting, but it gave me a better feel for the culture that existed within the era of the 1870's.

My preconceptions of Cove Fort found both accurate and inaccurate results. My limited glimpse into the past, prior to my visit, helped me to discover that supplies were not needed for hundreds of individuals. Second, the standard of living was at least comparable to locations around Cove Fort. Battles at Cove Fort were not necessary, because Indians had the sense to leave the fort alone, and the Hinkley reputation for hospitality provided friendly relations with everyone. Though items such as glass had to be imported to Cove Fort, and items traded to keep it running, Cove Fort was as self sufficient as possible.

My approach to rediscovering Cove Fort’s history was an effective way for me to learn about how things really were in that time and condition. I knew some questions that I wanted to learn more about from reading, and learned what questions needed to be asked while I was there. Seeing the many different rooms and items within them allowed my perception of southern Utah’s history to become clearer, and much more memorable.

Works Cited

Hafen, L. & Sappington, L. (1997) The Insiders’ Guide to Southwestern Utah. Insiders

Publishing Inc.

Nielson, Elder. (November 2001) Personal Interview.

Porter L. C. (1966) A Historical Analasis of Cove Fort, Utah.